Greater Rochester Triumph Touring Club: Forum Posts

International Triumph TR Registry

For those interested in registering you car. This is an interesting user friendly website. You can even upload a digital pic of your ride.

http://www.trregistry.com

Art

Proper Engine Oil for Older British Cars

People & club members!

I have several bottles of the ZPP Addative for sale (at MY COST). If any one is interested in knowing more about this, then E-mail me at: TR4A2712@yahoo.com or phone me (see club's roster) OR TALK to me at one of the Meetings.

This is excellent for 'breaking in: new cams or Rebuilt Engines

TRIUMPH GT6 FOR SALE

1968 GT6 Mark I convertible, the careful removal of GT6 roof, replaced with Spitfire Mark III panels and soft top. All GT6 features retained: seats, dash, proper suspension and brakes. Dark red metallic paint with charcoal vinyl and cloth interior. Mild engine and chassis modifications. Everything new or rebuilt. Includes matching removable factory hardtop. Car has about 2,000 miles so all new-car bugs have been worked out. Car is quick but still gets 26-28 mpg. Too many cars dictates selling this desirable Triumph. Asking $16,500. but will consider a reasonable offer. Now in winter storage, ready for early spring delivery. Call George at 585-872-6536. Located near Rochester, NY.

New GRTTC Products at Cafepress

Hi - we've added new products for the holiday season on the CafePress GRTTC Store. Now available are new jackets, tote bags, bumper stickers, etc, - all with the GRTTC logo! Here is the URL to paste into your browser:

http://www.cafepress.com/GRTTC

1971 Triumph TR6

This car is offered "For Sale" by Robert Salmon of Penfield.

1960 Triumph Herald Sedan for Sale

Selling a 1960 Herald Sedan.

Very original solid car fron canada.

Fresh yellow paint good tires and most everything works.

The brakes need to be adjusyed at rear.

Gas tank should be flushed out to be sure it is free of dirt.

Needs ignition switch as it wont start with the key but does with the solinoid buton in side engine bay.

New York State registered.

Has all trim and good interior.

See photos on flickr, link: http://www.flickr.com/photos/8061431@N07/sets/72157622456131975/

$1500 or best offer call Scot 585 808 1662 located in belmont ny 14813

Also on craigs list at; http://buffalo.craigslist.org/cto/1417433688.html

Also selling my Herald convertible. $2500 or best offer.

Radiator

Hi Bill! I had my radiator done this late winter (Feb. '09) & it cost me about $250. Give me a call if you want to know more. Cosmo Kramer 716-438-3769

Radiator

Hi Bill! I had my radiator done this late winter (Feb. '09) & it cost me about $250. Give me a call if you want to know more. Cosmo Kramer 716-438-3769

71 - up Spitfire rolling chassis

Yep,

From a 75, in VERY nice shape. Delivery available. $400.

Jim

TRIUMPH WIRE WHEELS & HUBS

4 TRIUMPH 72 Spoke Wire Wheels. These were restored a number of years ago and came with a recent purchase of a restored chassis that was never used. Hubs,studs and nuts all go with this set the paint could use some minor touch up. Also included are a set of mounted Redlines. I have looked these over and all the spokes are tight and in place, rolling chassis (failed restoration) was stored the better part of 10 years plus on these wheels. If interested please call Art 716-648-0708

Also cleaning out barn and have some FREE ITEMS TR4 &TR6 Bare Blocks,Brake Drums,Windshield Frames & some TR6 cranks. These items and others will be available for a short time Scrapyard bound before the snow.

Spitfire body tub for sale...

75 tub. Three pinholes on passenger side floor. NO OTHER RUST.

Correct for 71 and up car.

One dent at the rear deck (between cockpit and boot area). $400 at my house in Penfield.

I can help load (have hoist) or can deliver for a nominal fee.

Jim

wheels

Set of 5 14' spoke wheels. Would need sandblasting etc. Splines in very good shape. Dom Pardi 248-5557

TR4 TR4A parts

Many Tr parts for sale. Call @ 248-5557.

Two 1976 Spitfires

One runs, the other is a parts car. $5000/BO

Spitfire/Midget 1500 engine. PERFECT

SOLD !

1980 Triumph TR8 $6000 or Best offer

Here is the link to the craigslisting with some quick shots http://rochester.craigslist.org/cto/1305730169.html

1980 Triumph TR8 $6000 or Best offer

I am going back and forth on wanting to sell this car. They only made 2600 of them, and there are not too many left. The reason I am putting up for sale is that I just bought another car and need to sell this one. The short story is that it needs paint, could use another top, and some one to install the new exhaust and interior I have. I've been too busy and have been mostly just driving it to work. The long story is that it's a 1980 TR8. 5 speed, A/C, dark green, tan interior, black top with 57,000miles on it. It's a very very very solid car that I wouldn't hesitate to drive anywhere (in fact I plan on driving it to Lime Rock CT for the vintage fall festival). The 5 speed makes this car a great highway car, it is only turning 2300 RPM at 60 or 70 mph, and will jump right up to 90 mph with a blip of the throttle. It is nice and stable at those high speeds. It shifts just fine. Brakes are good (it's got the Ted's proportional valve). It has heat. Starts up instantly but something is sticking in the carbs, and has been hesitating sometimes - I have been meaning to take a look at it. It pulls hard enough to push you back in the seat enough to give you a big smile. It doesn't smoke when started or run. The engine is originally expect that it is missing engine cold air hoses going to the air cleaners -I've been told brake duct is a good substitute for the no-longer-available factory hoses, but I haven't found any for sale locally that I could use to size it. It's got the factory carbs. I also put a new water pump in it this summer. It's got a new clutch and rebuilt trans with less than 1500 miles on them. Exhaust isn't done properly. There is a exhaust tick on the passenger side that has got worst. It's got a welded-together monstrosity that's technically got cats, but not where they'll do any good. I've got a new catless exhaust for it. The suspension upgrades make it corner like a go-cart. Rebuilt power steering rack with less than 1500 miles on it. New Sumitomo 205/60 13 tires with less than 1000 miles on the factory TR8 rims. A new Delco/GM alternator conversion, new Polyurethane bushings, new struts, TSI's modified brake proportioning valve, braided steel brake lines, TSI's roller-bearing struttops, TSI's lowered/stiffened springs, Stainless brake cables. New clutch hydraulics. It's got tan plaid doors, and they are pretty ugly. Tan carpet (with matching TR8-badged floormats), tan velour seats. Carpet is good, seats are OK (could use diaphragms),. Like I said, I have an additional brand new black carpet kit, a new black rear panel (although it's been sitting and needs the vinyl reglued in a couple places), black door panels, shifter boot and console and kick pads. Everything you need to put in a black interior except the seat covers. I even have the new little rubber and plastic trim bits needed for the doors and windows, inside and out.. It could use a new top. The top works, but there is a slight tear on the passenger side near the snaps. The tonneau is OK. It's got a small tear.. I've got a spare trousseau without tears, but it'll need new snaps. The switch that turns on the BRAKE light when the handbrake is pulled needs to be fixed. It's got an external fuel pump, but it should have the in-tank pump replaced and lose the external. It's got AC –I was told by the previous owner that it worked 5 years ago, and the clutch engages when the switch is pulled, but there's no Freon in it now. Only one of the head lights pops up, I have been lazy and have mechanically raising it. Turn signals work but don't cancel. It passed inspection with flying colors. All lights, switches, horn, idiot lights, all work. Fuel level gauge/sender needs to be fixed, it moves but seems to be not perfectly actuate, as is the temp gauge, it works just probably not the full range. The clock doesn't seem to work. The odometer and speedo work fine too. It could use a paint job with some attention paid to the dings and scratches. The left front fender has been bondo'd (Have another factory fender). The front valence has been mushed. (Have another factory valence). A little rust on one of the wheel arches.. There's a small dent on one of the doors (spare door to replace that). I've got a bonus trunk lid (the one installed has a luggage rack, the spare has a spoiler.). I have new mirrors, including a passenger side mirror (not installed). There's a little bit of rust on the left rear wheel arch. The floors and rockers are good, looks like someone tried to tow it from the holes on the crossmember under the seats, so it's a little torn up. The floor pan plugs have a little rust (just the plugs, the pans look great) a little surface rust on the bottom outside edges. The passenger side footwell is pushed up a bit, looks like someone tried to jack it up there once. Bottom line is that I would like to sell this before I change my mind again. It's a great car.

Spitfire/Midget 1500 engine. PERFECT

Super condition.

Great compression, oil pressure, runs dandy.

$400 in Penfield.

585-261-6620 or jim(spamremoval)@thebriton.com

Jim

triumph tr7

Hi I have not gotten onto this in a long time and i saw your question a few months ago and to answer it, yes the car is still available and ready for a new owner. Please call my cell if you have any questions. 801 735 9886 or send me an e-mail to my g-mail account tr7evan@gmail.com

Kind Regards,

Evan Voelckers

1973 TR6 Modified Racecar for Sale

1973 TR6 Modified Racecar, Tested at Watkins Glen, Ready to Race.

New floor pans, polished intake, Poly tranny & D.S. covers, new Hoosier vintage TD Tires, new Mini-lite rims, chopped fly wheel, rebuilt transmission & rear end, new front spoiler, new ATL fuel cell, roll bar, alum, ultra-shield racing seat, 5 point harness, cross drilled rotors (front), aluminum finned rear brake drums, FIA cut-off switch. Asking $7,000. Contact Dave Asmuth at 621-7035.

1951 MGTD

For sale 1951 MGTD, great interior, needs paint and minimal body work, ran well last year, new brakes. Dom Pardi 585-248-5557. Has handcrank and some spare parts.

1976 TR 6 For Sale

1976 Triumph TR 6 for Sale

Terrific TR 6 Tahiti Blue exterior, tan interior for sale. Unique items include factory OVERDRIVE, along with factory hardtop AND Ziebart undercoated. Rare! Completely redone interior - new tonneau and boot covers. 75,000 original miles. New factory dash, pertronix electronic ignition, rebuilt transmission, new clutch and clutch master cylinder, new water pump, rear brakes and front shocks. Entire front end rebuilt: aluminum sterring rack mounts, new tie rods, new ball joints, sway bar and lower trunnion bushings. Spin-off oil filter, battery cut-off, etc. Originally purchased in 2006 from Georgia for $18,000. Have invested more than $5,000 in updates. Priced to sell at $19,950. Please contact Valerie at 585-388-1113 or bluebmw@frontiernet.net. Serious buyers ONLY~!

carbs

I think it was the needle that was stuck, but luckily freed itself and is now unstuck, I started it and let it run today for a while, no fires!

carbs

I'm pretty sure the needle(s) is/are stuck on one of the carbs.

Anytime one starts up a car from a long slumber it's a good idea to check things over before 'starting'.

Hindsight is 20/20 of course, but spinning an engine on the starter motor with the ignition disabled is always a good idea. This way you can determine oil pressure, no fuel leaks, and those bothersome things.

This could have been a LOT worse. Care is taken, care is rewarded.

Jim

carbs

Hello all! Well, after at least 10 years of never being started, I quickly started the TR6 up! This was quickly followed by a quick flow of gasoline out of the carbs and a fire in my garage! Luckily I was quick to extinguish it with no damage to the house and no visible damage to the engine or car. I will be using my compressor to blow fire extinguisher powder off of the engine tomorrow. I was wondering if anyone knows how I could stop this gasoline flow problem? If anyone is available to come take a look that would be very helpful in guiding me through the next steps. I live in Greece and can be contacted via phone or email: 943-0711 / guildaya@yahoo.com

New Season

The cracked paint sounds serious. If cracks are just in the paint, you might be able to make it look better with some 1200 wet-or-dry sand paper and water, followed by some serious polishing, preferably with a polisher, if you have access to one. Meguiers sells some very good polish and swirl remover. There is some risk of rubbing through the paint if it's too thin.

If the material below the paint is cracked, as in some body filler there, you're gonna have to sand through the paint into the filler to get rid of the cracks. Then that area will have to be repainted. I'd say just keep the TR6 running well and put the cosmetics off until you can do a thorough job. We call it "patina" and it doesn't look so bad on a 30+ year old car.

Our next meeting is Wednesday, May 20 starting at Genesee Valley Park where our UKCarDay event will be held later in August. You'll find more about the meeting elsewhere in this Website.

New Season

GRTTC General Meeting & UK Car Day Site Preview

Wednesday, May 20, 2009
5:30 PM - 8:30 PM

We’ll be meeting at the UK Car Day Show site in Genesee Valley Park at 5:30 PM to preview the location of our August event. At 6:00 PM we will convene to the nearby Elmwood Inn for dinner (to be confirmed), with the meeting to start at 7:00 PM or so. Directions to the Riverbend Pavilion can be found at UKCarDay.com.

David Wightman TR 4

I am selling my 1962 TR 4. ser # CT357L. This car has placed in the last VTR national conventions. For more information or photo Call me at 7163781453 or at dnwightman@roadrunner.com

TR 6 motor

For sale 1969 TR6 motor. This was out of a running car. Has the big head and cam. call or E mail me for price.

David Wightman

dnwightman@roadrunner.com

4 Widened Triumph Wheels

These wheels would fit Triumph TR2 through TR6 (four-bolt on 4.5" bolt circle). 1 pair is 8" wide, and 1 pair is 10" wide. Extra width is all outboard of stock. These wheels run true! $100 OBO. Call George at (585) 872-6536.

TR4/TR4A Rear Bumper

Some straightening and complete rechroming required. Overriders and brackets are included. Asking $25.00 Call George at (585)872-6536.

New Season

The paint has cracked. I was hoping to redo just the hood. Is this possible?

Also, when/where is the next meeting?

New Season

Thanks for the question. A reply should start with what you mean by “failing” paint. If it’s dull, it can be rubbed out, either by you or professionally. If it’s cracked and crazed, the paint is shot and the car should be repainted. In any case, a good rubbing, perhaps with compound, will make the old paint look lots better, if not a permanent fix. Good luck! BTW, you might look into joining us at an upcoming meeting. We’re a small club so far, but serious Triumph owners! George Haynes

1971 Triumph TR6

For Sale: 1971 Triumph TR6

Price is $11,000
Only 53,000 original miles (no rain or winters!)
Outstanding running condition
Red with new black interior, new convertible top
Many new parts—more than $3,000 invested since 2003
Solid, well-maintained car that is pleasure to drive……

Car is at 10 Legacy Circle, Penfield, NY; call 585-218-6249 for info.

New Season

Hello everyone:

I'm new to the area and don't know much about Triumphs. I have a TR6 that I'm taking out of storage this weekend (assuming that the weather cooperates). When I put it away the paint was failing. I would like to work on the car myself, but don't have the equipment or expertise. I know that this is a litte forward, but I would really appreciate any help any of you could give a young enthusiast.

Thank you.

UK Car Day T-Shirts

GRTTC Members can order Car Show T-shirts now. Please email bhaynes1@rochester.rr.com with sizes wanted - S, M, L, or XL. Payment ($12.00) can be made at time of pick-up or cost can be included in Car Show Registration form. The shirts should be ready for the April Brunch Run to Penn Yan.

battery

Hi Alex - ask away! The battery compartment in your car is quite large, so almost any battery will fit in there. I would recommend a battery with at least 500 to 600 CCA. Interstate batteries are among the best, but in fact a Walmart or equivalent battery would work just fine too. A small trickle charger would also be a good thing to add. Also make sure your battery cables and connections are clean with no damage. George

TR6 Steel Hardtop

Hi...not 100% sure it would fit. I know the top bows are pretty are pretty much interchangeable. This is a very nice unmolested top. You are more than welcome to give it a look.

Art

blast from the past....

[IMG]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s201/zwarbyt/206aa272.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s201/zwarbyt/3ed89cef.jpg[/IMG]

photo's from my best friends fathers toolbox... thought you might enjoy..

battery

Well, I'm sure that this is the 1st of many, many questions that I will be posting up on here. I've just ordered the Bentley TR6 workshop manual! In my preparation for the spring start-up attempt(s) one thing that I know for sure is that I need to get a battery. Any suggestions as to where and what kind? 1976 TR6 --Alex Guilday P.S. moving car out of winter storage next weekend, the fun begins!

triumph tr7

Hi! Just saw Evan's old ad. Is the TR7 gone?

TR6 Steel Hardtop

Hi Art. Do you still have the hardtop? Any idea if it would fit my TR250?

TR6 Steel Hardtop

Would love to see this go to a local club member rather than the Ebay Bandits and speculators. This is a near mint TR6 Steel hardtop,no dents dings or rust. Has all the gaskets,headliner is near perfect white. All the glass is perfect. My understanding from the 2nd owner is that this was removed very early in the car's life and stored. Paint Code on car is 106 Mallard. I have been cleaning it up and it polishes up very nicely. If interested Email will work fine,all offers considered.....Art.......lipp04@yahoo.com

Newbies enjoyed the Pub Club meeting

We were all very enthused with the new members at our last meeting - thanks so much for coming such a long way to join us! It was great to meet you both and we look forward to seeing you often at future events. Maybe our Heralds can meet soon too! George & Beverly

Newbies enjoyed the Pub Club meeting

Scot & Lois here

We wanted to say thanks for inviting us and we had a great fun time at the Pub Club meeting.

Glad to have a Triumph clud in the area. Long over due.

Will update with triumph info from the Southern Tier.

Glad to be a member!

Scot

1961 Triumph Herald Convertible for sale

1961 Triumph Herald Convertible for sale.

Solid no rust through early Herald.

Is original and complete with good usable original interior.

Has not been on the road for 20 years.

is not running now as carbs need rebuild.

turns over freely.

60 k miles.

Yellow paint is in need of a redo.

Car is located 80 miles south of Rochester in Belmont ny 14813

Selling at $2500.oo or best offer above that amount...

Ohotos aty Flickr link:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/8061431@N07/sets/72157601703954464/

Call me or email at:

scot104 yahoo.com

585 808 1662

Cooling system flush

There are 'flush' products that help greatly Mark. Following the directions on a name brand product should do the trick.

LOTS OF WATER.

Jim

New seat belts

Remember Mark,

If you go with the inertia type, they often (Kangol) depend on the 'angle' at which they are mounted in order to retract properly.

hth,

Jim

New seat belts

I'm looking at upgrading my static seat belts to the inertia ones. I have a 72 TR6 with a roll bar. Has anyone had any experience installing these. Santa got me a gift certificate to Rimmer Brothers and it's burning a hole in my stocking.

Happy New Year to all!

Mark Wright

Cooling system flush

Are there some good instructions on how to flush my cooling system prior to installing my new radiator?

Thanks,

Mark

Adjusting Your Valves Easily

Do you dread Adjusting your Values? Have a hard time moving from TDC to the next valve for adjusting? After you do finally adjust the valves, do you wonder if you really got the Cam in the best position when you were trying to adjust each valve?

Well IF you have Justin Wagner’s Valve Cover Gasket & follow my tips, then your worries are over. My tips are pointed at the TRIUMPH ‘Wet sleeve engine’, but can possibly be adapted for others, too.

1- Mark the leading edge of the pointer that is attached to the Timing Cover with white paint. (I used whiteout.)

2- Mark the inside of the Crankshaft Pulley, in line with the ‘pointer mark’, when the engine’s #1 piston is at TDC with the white paint. (Again, I used whiteout.)

(See Fig. #1)

3- Follow the TDC Crankshaft Pulley mark out to the other end of the Damper (Fan Extension) & make a mark to be seen later on. (See Fig. #2)

4- Remove the Dog Bolt, Fan, & Damper.

5- Using a protractor, make 3 more marks, 90 degrees to the TDC mark made on the ‘fan end’ of the damper.

(See Fig.# 3-4)

6- Then make notches at each of the four 90 degree marks that you made on the ‘fan end’ of the damper so it can accept a 2" curve Spanner Wrench. (I had my machinist do this.)

7- Assemble all parts back in the proper locations. (See Fig. #5)

8- Now if your Cam & Crank Sprockets are in correct sink with the Timing Chain, then you are guaranteed of getting each Tappet 180 degrees from the apex of the cam’s lobe.

9- Starting with the engine’s #1 piston at TDC, adjust Valve #1.

10- With the Transmission in neutral & using you Spanner Wrench, rotate the Damper 90 degrees in the engine’s proper direction to adjust the next Valve (Clockwise when standing in front of the radiator & looking at the engine from the front towards the back of the car). Use your manual to follow the proper sequence of adjusting your Valves.

Now! Wasn’t that simple, painless, accurate, & EASY?

-Jeff (Cosmo) Kramer

Woodland/GRTTC Regalia Website Now Up!

The Woodland Design page dedicated to GRTTC regalia is now up and running!

Here is the link:

www.woodlandsilkscreen.com

Once you are on their website, click on the GRTTC link to the left under "Categories".

The Woodland regalia is primarily for items with the embroidered club logos.

Thanks to Laurie at Woodland for the work and effort in providing this on-line regalia program for our club! Order turn around will be approximately 2- 3 weeks, with a pick-up or mailing option.

If there are additional items you would like to see with the embroidered club logo, please contact Beverly Haynes at bhaynes1@rochester.rr.com. The items will be revised on a seasonal basis, or upon request.

Guages

I removed the guages and used the above mentioned article to see what was inside, late model spitfire guages are simple to disassemble. I cleaned things up and used a little light oil with teflon to lubricate the bushing where the cable drives the shaft and it freed up nicely. When I went to reassemble everyhting I removed the gearbox end of the cable from below, easy, and looked for the broken end. I could not find a piece that snapped off so I put the old cable through and it came all the way through. I put the cable back on at the gearbox, very hard, and took the car off the jack. It turns out that this, new 2 years ago, cable might be a tad long and with a little wear at the speedo end may have pushed just beyond where the drive gear grabs it and tehre is no stop inside of the gear. I put a small washer on the cable at the speedo end to slightly shorten the cable and got everything back together and it works fine. In hindsight it would have been a good idea to check the cable better but at least my guages got a good cleaning.

For Sale 1957 TR3 small mouth

Sold

Guages

The other day, right after I put the hard top on for the cooler weather, I was out running errands with my daughter. The speedo needle started fluctuating pretty wildly and I didn’t have a good feeling about it. As it turn out it was for good reason it eventually bounce down to nothing made a few weak attempts at movement and didn’t move again. The cable was bad when I got the car and now, as I found out when I got back home, it was bad again. Does anyone have any experience in rebuilding Smiths gauges? I read online that they will build up crud inside over time and either start to stick or freeze up altogether. I am thinking I will make a winter project out of it and rebuild the speedo and tach. I found this online http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/speedo.pdf which seems to offer a pretty good overview on how to get into the gauge and how to fix it. I suspect that this is probably more of a problem with the gauge and not the cable so it doesn’t make sense just to replace the cable again without at least cleaning the gauges first. If anyone has a different opinion let me know.

GRTTC Patches and Decals

We now have embroidered patches ($6.00) and clear window decals ($1.00) with the club logo on them. If you would like either of these items, they will be available at the general club meetings or by contacting Beverly Haynes to receive them by mail.

Proper Engine Oil for Older British Cars

PROPER ENGINE OIL FOR OLDER BRITISH CARS
…… A Real Concern or Another “Chicken Little” Story?
By George Haynes

By now just about everyone has read something about modern engine oils being unsuited for use in our (older) British cars. It has to do with the removal (or very serious reduction) of ZDP, a chemical abbreviation for Zinc dithiophosphate additive, which affects the life of Catalytic Converters. In an effort to increase the life of these catalytic converters, our US Government had decreed that ZDP should be virtually eliminated from modern motor oils (there are a few exceptions: later).

This might not be so bad, except we have heard that for many years the same ZDP has made our camshafts and lifters last longer, and without it we will suffer serious wear in these “high scrub” areas of the engines we love.

The offending oils, those with no - or seriously reduced - ZDP are currently identified as “SM” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Ratings of “SL” or earlier alphabetically contain ZDP in levels that are deemed acceptable.

There is another view of this subject. In the publication, “Auto Restorer”, the resident “Mechanic On Duty”, Richard Prince, contends that the American oil industry would not pull a dirty trick on those of us with “flat tappet” engines and oils with an “SM” rating are fully as capable of lubricating all components of our engines as all previous oils rated by the API.

A similar opinion comes from William C. Anderson, writing in “Old Cars Weekly”. In his October 11, 2007 article, Bill concludes, “The consensus of expert opinion by those regularly engaged in developing engine oils based on objective tests is that modern engine oils, including the most recent category, SM, will provide satisfactory lubrication for collector cars.” He goes on to say, “This issue is complex and not definitely settled.”

So there you are. We may have another over-reaction to the subject of engine oils, similar to that of twenty years ago when lead was removed from gasoline. Horrible things were predicted back then, but I can’t say I have seen or heard of any example of lead-elimination damaging an engine.

So who to believe? If you are one who feels strongly about ZDP in your engine oil, there are some oils manufactured which contain it in levels over 0.08 percent. Castrol makes several of these, as does Valvoline and others. Alternately, there are ZDP additives, which can be included at each oil change.
Moss Motors sells an oil brand labeled, “Collector’s choice”, having higher levels of ZDP, as well as a ZDP additive in 8-ounce bottles.

My objective here is not to draw conclusions or make recommendations. Rather, it is to present both sides and keep this issue current until some clearer picture evolves. As always, your input is welcomed and valued.

Tire Cover and Towels

Here is the link to the tire covers I showed at our last meeting http://www.thebriton.com/tirecover.htm you can also talk to Jim about the color coordinated custom embroidered car towels as well.

Sept. Meeting Minutes

GRTTC General Meeting Minutes

Log Cabin Restaurant Cruise Night

September 24, 2008

Present: Bob Harris, Jack Harrison, Mike & Sue Harrison, George & Beverly Haynes, Rob & Pam Houseknecht, Doug & Cindy Jack, Jeff Kramer, Andy Paris, Ned & Julie Paulsen, Bill & Kathy Rampe, Susan & Larry Rausch, John & Ruth Ann Trippe, Allyn & Dom Pardi, Tom LaChiusa & Melanie Jabbour, Steve Rossini, Joe & Joeanna DeBlaere

Regalia:

Bev Haynes gave us an update on the regalia

· Patches with our round logo are available at $6.00

· Round windshield decals are available

· A link to the Café Press on-line store (http://www.cafepress.com/GRTTC) is available on our website. A variety of shirts and hats are available. Many other items can be available upon our club request including mugs, license plate frames, etc.

· A link for our local vendor, Woodland Design, will be on the website soon.

· The link to these sites can be found in the “forum” section on the website.

Andy Paris noted that there is also a link to “The Briton” in the links section of the website. They can customize a number of items.

Website:

George Haynes talked about the kinds of information that are available on our website and encouraged members to share ideas and information, especially through the Forum section. He recommended that pieces for the website could be created in Microsoft Word and then cut and pasted into the site.

Events:

Cindy Jack shared an update on events.

· October 5 – Roycroft Inn Fall Tour (details on website)

· October 19 – Letchworth Ride (weather permitting)

· November 12 – GRTTC General Meeting at the Irish Pub in Fairport

· January 17 – Christmas in January Party at the restaurant in Durand Eastman Park

Other Events…

· July 18, 19 2009 - Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix

· October 9, 2009 - VTR Regional Convention at Jekyll Island, Georgia (we hope to have a strong contingent of GRTTC members for these two events)

· Andy Paris mentioned an opportunity to do good works for needy children through Camp Good Days and Special Times in mid July at the Watkins Glen Race Track. Volunteers would give the children rides in their vintage cars around the track (not too fast). More info as we get closer to that time.

Deer Run Winery Event from July ‘08

George shared that, while we considered the event a success, our profit was limited to the 50/50 raffle. In case we do not repeat the winery event, we are looking at other options.

Dues:

Our annual dues are $20 and are payable by January 1^st.

General Meeting Locations

We are always looking for new locations for our general meetings, especially keeping in mind members who travel longer distances. Feel free to call George or Beverly Haynes with your ideas at 585-872-4846.

Respectfully Submitted,

Ned Paulsen

Recording Secretary

For Sale 1957 TR3 small mouth

0 Purchased car 1985 and always in garage

0 Very complete condition

0 External look good

0 include 5 spoke wheels

0 new Battery, wiring harness

0 has heater but no overdrive

0 Rusted inner door sills, floor panels, trunk floor, and inner rear apron panel,and some frame rust

0 needs new interior

Larry Rausch 585-455-1147

1979 Spitfire

Daily driver. 56K. Pertronix ignition. Newer tires. New spare radiator. Good restoration car. $2500 585-245-8066

CafePress GRTTC Regalia Store Link

We have partnered with Cafepress to offer our members a quick and easy way to order silk screened type items without required minimum quantities. To view and order regalia items please go to the store located at: http://www.cafepress.com/GRTTC

Simply choose the items in the preferred sizes and colors, then follow the process for the secure check-out. The quality of the printing and material have been very good, and the speed of delivery was amazing - I had both orders arrive (with the cheapest shipping option) within 3 days!

Products available will change seasonally, or upon request.

We will also be rolling out another aspect of our regalia program shortly for embroidered items through Woodland in Ontario, NY.

Any questions, problems, or requests for specific items with the GRTTC logo should be addressed to: Beverly at
bhaynes1@rochester.rr.com.

Triumph Tire Talk

Some Triumph Tire Talk
By George Haynes

Two of the things, that Triumph owners often ask are,
“What size tires should I put on my car?”, and, “Where can I buy them?”

The answers today are: it depends on what wheels the tires are going onto and how much you are able to pay for them.

Once upon a time the usual (often original size) 155R15 and 165R15 tires (also in 13” and 14”) were plentiful: Michelin, Pirelli, Dunlop, Semperit, Firestone; all these and many others were available, and at reasonable prices.

Today the story is much different. With auto manufacturers producing new cars with dozens, if not hundreds, of new and different sizes, only a few manufacturers are willing to produce tires in the old sizes we need. There are a few old names, like Michelin and BF Goodrich and Vredestein available in correct original sizes for our Triumphs, but hold onto your wallet; they’re gonna cost. Some of these tires are actually made by someone else, licensing the use of original names and tread patterns. For example, I believe the Michelin tires available from Coker Tire (and others) today are not made in a Michelin plant anymore. Are they as good as the tires Michelin used to make? I don’t know the answer but I can say that Michelin always made a very high-quality tire. I’ve installed hundreds of them.

The downside: most of these tires are over $100. each, often closer to $200. EACH! I like good quality tires but we typically drive our cars a couple thousand miles each year and they will rot off the rims before we reach the end of the tread life.

Getting back to the original question: What should I put on my car NOW?

Let’s assume you are still using the original wheels on your Triumph. If they are only 4.0” wide, you’re pretty much stuck with 155 or 165 tires. Larger sizes can be squeezed onto the rims but will probably be too wide for a 4.0” rim and/or will upset the original ride height and speedometer accuracy. The tread won’t lay flat on the ground, either. I have seen some that are so large they just look stupid. Don’t go that way!

In some cases, it is possible to substitute a 175/70 size on a 4.0” rim but even that size would be better fitted to a 4.5” or 5.0” rim width. The 175/70 tire has the same diameter as a 155 tire, but with the tread width of a 175 tire. Confused? It’s in the “aspect ratio”, the measurement of tire section height to width. With a 70-section, the tire height (above the rim) will be approximately 70% of the tire section width. Similarly, a 60-section tire will have a height that is 60% of the tire width, etc. All these lower-profile tires require rims in widths wider than 4.0”.

The current crop of Off-Brand tires is usually sized at 165/80R13 or 165/80R15”. While these are approximately the correct diameter, and fit original rim widths, they appear too skinny in the tread width. Fortunately, these tires are usually reasonably priced.

Now, if you are willing to alter the original rim size, the news is a bit brighter. For example, the popular Panasport and Minilite wheels available from many suppliers are usually 5.0” or 5.5” wide. Without altering the ride height of your car, tires in 175/70 and 185/70 or 185/65 and 195/65 sizes can be fitted to these wider wheels.

If you drive a TR6 or TR7/8, your stock wheels (steel or wire) are 5.5” wide and will accommodate many of these larger-section tires.
If you drive a Spitfire, the wheels from a TR7 will fit, after altering the bolt holes to accept a tapered nut. This allows use of a much wider tire on a factory wheel. I have TR7 wheels on my GT6. One set has 185/60R13” tires which are a bit smaller in diameter and are used for autocrossing. In this application, the smaller tire lowers the car a bit and improves the overall gearing for better acceleration. They lower this car too much for street driving, though, so I also have a set of taller, 185/70R13 tires for normal driving.

If you drive a TR3 or TR4, an option to consider is TR6 wheels.
Hub sizes are the same for wire wheels, whether 48-spoke or 60-spoke or 72-spoke, so why not use TR6 wire wheels, which are 5.5” wide?
Similarly, TR6 steel wheels will bolt onto your TR3 or TR4 without alteration. Again, these wider wheels permit a much better selection of tire sizes and many are reasonable priced.

A word of information that must be included in this document:
Almost all Triumphs and older British cars did not use “Safety Rims”. That is, they had no provision to secure a tubeless tire to the rim in the event of a major loss of air pressure. That’s why they originally came fitted with inner tubes.
With the exception of wire wheels, it is possible to fit tubeless tires to these older wheels, IF THE PROPER PRESSURES ARE MAINTAINED AND NO COMPETITION WORK IS PLANNED.   While inner tubes may be a nuisance, they serve a very important purpose and should not be omitted in most cases. OK, I’ll get down off the soap box now.

Here are three suppliers, which could be contacted for more specific tire information and advice:
1.    Coker Tire, at 866-591-3418 or www.cokertire.com
2.    British Wire Wheel, at 800-947-3943 or www.britishwirewheel.com
3.    The Tire Rack, at 888-371-8473 or www.tirerack.com

There are many others, of course and perhaps someone will contribute their experience and suggestions to this topic. Thanks!

SOLD: New TR7 Steering Rack

It's been sold as of 9/14/08.

triumph tr7

For sale is a very nice 80 tr7. I have owned the car for about a year and a half and driven it every day. For the past nine months the car has been in Provo, Utah and I recently drove it back to Rochester 3 weeks ago without any problems! The engine has about 76,000 miles on it is still very strong and does not burn or leak any oil. The trani is good, no wierd noises or anything. New/rebuilt clutch, tires, top, clutch master, clutch slave, water pump ect.... a year ago. The car cruises 80 mph np problem and gets 28 mpg highway. In Utah i would drive the car to work every day and on the 100 degree days out there the car would cool extreemley well. And the car always started in cool weather. Never been crashed and fixed. Original paint and fabulous for being 28 years old! I have worked on british cars for 5 years and am extremley familiar with them and can tell you everything about the car. Not wanting to sell the car but I need the money for college soon. The steering wheel does not come with the car. I am open for serious offers and can be reached anytime at 801 735 9886 or 315 986 3097 My name is Evan. email is tr7evan@gmail.com

TR 6 PARTS MANY;MANY;MANY

I HAVE MANY TR6 (72-73) PARTS TO CHOOSE FROM. BUMPERS, LIGHTS, FENDERS, HOOD, TRUNK LID,

CARBS - STILL ATTACHED TO THE SPARE ENGINE! RADIATOR, FAN, SEATS(72 STYLE), WHEELS.....

JUST CALL BEFORE YOU BUY NEW STUFF - KEN 585-615-2743 (ken74bgt@yahoo.com)

Spitfire Differential For Sale

Spitfire differential assembly, complete. 3.89 ratio. Works well but too steep for my GT6. Asking $150. Call George at 585-872-6536

Wheel/Tyre Services Available

Services:
Experienced Triumph enthusiast offers tyre service: mounting and dynamic balancing of steel, alloy and wire wheels. Some new tyres available. Reasonable prices. Call George at 585-872-6536

How Should A Sportscar Sound?

The Right Sound for a Sports Car
By George Haynes

Call me nutty if you will (you won’t be the first!) but it’s my belief that sports cars should sound “right”. Admittedly, this is very subjective, a little like the Supreme Court Justice who declared that he can’t define pornography but he knows it when he sees it! Each car has a unique character and with it an appropriate exhaust sound. Some are too quiet; even wimpy in my mind. Let the Honda Accords and SUV’s whisper. A sports car has to make a little noise. This fondness for the “right” exhaust sound goes way back with me.

In High School, there was a “perfect” sound that came from flathead Ford engines. The car needed exhaust headers, “Smitty” glass-packed mufflers and “Dynatone” exhaust tips. That was wonderful music to the ears, just a little rumble, likened to trying to talk with a mouthful of marshmallows.

For the MGB, it was the stock two-downpipe exhaust manifold and a complete Abarth exhaust system. This configuration had two resonate frequencies, corresponding to two engine speeds, approximately 2500 RPM and again at about 4,000 RPM. You can’t buy Abarth systems any more and the current crop of exhaust systems for MGB’s: Monza (a little too loud) and Ansa (a little too quiet) don’t come close to that perfect Abarth sound.

Similarly, I have never heard an MGA that uses the stock exhaust manifold that really sounded good to me. To cure this with my own MGA, I used a Long Center Branch header with two bullet glass-packs in series in an attempt to duplicate the MGB Abarth sound. It turned out pretty close but a bit too loud. The two resonate points were there, though.

On my TR4A, the engine has a cast header with two down pipes. The original configuration had a single muffler after the two pipes, leading to a Y-pipe and two smaller mufflers near the rear. Much to quiet!!
The better setup is to eliminate the front muffler and leave only the two in the rear. This produces a nice, mellow exhaust note, which sounds great during acceleration and levels off when cruising so it’s hardly heard. It’s important that your exhaust doesn’t drone when you’re cruising. This is really annoying and causes headaches after a few miles. I don’t know how most Harley owners can stand the continuous roar their 2.5” diameter straight pipes make, especially while accelerating. Maybe that’s why they say, “Huh?” a lot.

OK, I’ve expressed my opinion here. Anyone want to jump in and share your favorite sports car sound and how to duplicate it? How about a sound that’s really annoying?

New TR7 Steering Rack

I have a brand new, still-in-the-box Rimmer Bros. manual steering rack for a TR7 (Part No. BAU275, list £97.87, about $186 plus $98 shipping), sent to me in error by Rimmer Bros. and too large and expensive to ship back to the UK for exchange. I will bring it to the Triumph Tour de Marque / US Vintage Grand Prix (Sept. 5-7) in Watkins Glen or to a future GRTTC event if someone wants it. Please contact me off-list with an offer if you are interested. I am also willing to ship; package weighs 33 lbs and should be about $20 – 40 to ship FedEx Ground US/Canada depending on distance.

Anne Schneiderman

anne.schneiderman@gmail.com

80 TR8 DHC

Ulysses, New York

Radiator

Thanks Andy, I did call Pat's in ER and they were one of the local radiator shops I was thinking of taking it to. Upon removing it today, I think my 36 year old radiator is way beyond repair, so I'll bite the bullet and get it recored.

Mark Wright

Radiator

I had my radiator repaired at Pat's in East Rochester. He cleaned it, rapaired, and painted it. So far it is holding up well.

Radiator

Good afternoon all,

Has anyone had their radiator recored locally? I was working on the front suspension, had to move the radiator a bit, and before I knew it, developed a leak. I’m sure it’s the original, but I might be able to get the hole fixed at a pretty reasonable price. I’ll find out after they look at it. No one will say for sure until they check it out, but I’m hearing around $300. From what I’ve read I’m a little skeptical of buying new versus recoring. Could you share your thoughts?

Thanks,

Mark Wright

A great Cleaner!

Hi everyone! Had to share this.

On the TR-6 (as you know) the rear deck gets pretty snarley with road film and grime from the exhaust. I've stumbled on a great way to get this part of the car clean and not get crazy chasing streaks. Take a bottle of ZEP degreaser and dilute a 2 oz portion to the same empy and fill with water. Do this slowly as it get foamy. When ready, spray all over the rear deck, bumper, lights, everything. Let set for just a minute or so and follow with a wet sponge. Rinse and dry. That's it. You'll be stunned at the result...And I'm now using it as a window cleaner It's great !!

John

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